[Retrospective post base on notes from trip]
- One of my most enjoyable days in Madrid, definitely helped by trying not to use English when I'm out. So much so that a lady asked me to fill in a survey - to which I replied in bad catallano: "No hablo Español!" (@ Plaza Castillo).
- Started the dia with the Thyssen-B. museum. People enjoy it more (compared to the bigger museos) for 2 reasons: space and gift shop. Because it's lesser known, there's less of a crowd and the art is diverse. Wished there were more sculptures and ceramics, but as a private colección it is impressive. Heaps of Monets, one Lichestein (my favourite so far), a handful of Picassos, temporary collection of Alberto Caro who has done some very detailed lithographs. Felt slightly sick (feverish) at one stage, but apparently it's just the secondhand cigarette smoke that brought it on. The gift shop was amazing. they should open franchises [like the New York MoMA].
- Had my second menu del dia, which consisted of rice, fried egg, fried banana and baked bean sauce (Cubana rice?) and Russian fillet (basically crumbed pork fillets) with - you guessed it - fries. Think the waiter ended up giving me more change that was necessary.
- Went in search of architecture. First after TB was the Atoche Station, the site of the 2002 Madrid bombings. The estaccion itself s a masterpiece, with a living garden inside. I guess all Eurostar trains stops here. The level 1 has a memorial for the victimas of the April 11 bombing. Eerily silent as I stepped into the double door space, empty except for a bench and the memorial centrepiece, an inflated plastic balloon, clear with reproductions of well-wishers' messages. The wind picked up while I was there, and the sound from the movement of the balloon was mesmorising and scaring at the same time. Almost overshot and nearly gave up on seeing this one.
- More architecture. The Nuevos Miniterios (The Ministry of Agriculture is there?) business district. Nothing much except for the biggest MANGO store I have the privilege of being in. Took a chance and hopped on the Metro to Cuzco. Walked the wrong direction to the ministry of Defense (formidable building), the 'wrong' La Defensa building. Went the other direction to the Plaza de Castilo, where I finally came across what I was looking for: the famous La Defensa, a pair of twin slunted buildings. Appears to have a single vertical beam/frame in each. Any other place and it probably would not have worked. But they were beautiful against the sunset (it was 1630hrs).
- A largish stadium caught my eye, which led me to Fundacion de Isabel, which had a lovely little exhibition of ass - yes, that - photographs by Man Ray, Isabel Nuñez etc. The best thing were the props, which were pinkish-red wallpaper with gold coat-of-arms and doors (doorknob at centre) with a peep-hole. All very Peeping-Tom-esque. The reception was manned by this guy with the most unique transparent plastic spectacle frames. Who thankfully spared me from more broken Spanish by giving me directions in English (opps, so much for the earlier resolution...).
- Still no PAELLA! No Botanical Gardens and no Cava de Baja. Hmmm.
Lessons learnt:
- There is a higher chance of you bumping inito a tourist than a bull fighter in Madrid. Lonely Planet mush have a sweet little earner on titles about this destination.
- Speak more Spanish because everyone seems to love a conversation here!
- Check out what's available at the river. The guide books don't really cover the suburbs, but I have a feeling there's more there.
- Fit Barcelona next time. But Madrid alone is still cool.
- Come with a party buddy. Or a partner. The city is wasted on the anti-social and non-romantic.
- Madrid souvenir shops aren't half bad. The have stuff for Real Madrid fans, the toro fans the Dali'ists, the tasteless tourist and the paella lover (well, magnets that remind them of paella anyway...). Interestingly, they also have Mona Lisa magnets too. Thought Paris had exclusive rights to that...